T
Досмотрели финальные шоу мужской недели моды в Милане и Париже — рассказываем о главных трендах будущего сезона, а заодно определяемся с коллекциями-фаворитами.
Хорошо скроенный костюм — абсолютная константа любого мужского сезона. Будущий исключением не стал, скорее, закрепил за тейлорингом позицию лидера. Ищем референсы на шоу Botter (у Рушеми Боттера и Лиси Херребрюг глухие рубашки идут в паре с брюками с завышенной талией и напоминают офисный комбинезон), Prada (Миучча и Раф точно знают, что современный мужской костюм ассоциируется с комфортом), Gucci и Dolce & Gabbana. В дебютной коллекции Сабато де Сарно на пиджаках появляются «жабры», а Доменико Дольче и Стефано Габбана выводят «новый вид» комплект для black-tie.
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Свитер/жилет/кардиган из гардероба дедушки — новый (старый?) «кор», который обещает остаться с нами на несколько сезонов. Радует, что долгоиграющий холод в большей части регионов страны позволит опробовать тренд, не дожидаясь следующеей осени. Классные вариации на тему нашли в коллекции Zegna, Isabel Marant и Dries Van Noten — и везде в паре со свободного кроя, контрастными и/или в тон брюками. Берем на заметку!
Чтобы все свое носить с собой, выбираем одежду с вместительными карманами. Если куртки, то бархатные, как у Дриса Ван Нотена. Если пальто, то с капюшоном и в цвете морской волны, как у Пьерпаоло Пиччоли. Если брюки, то вариации карго, как у Андерсона и Армани. Если хочется всего и сразу, то ориентируемся на коллекцию Sacai. Такая красивая практичность нам по душе.
Длинноворсовые и оверсайз шубы будем носить на голое тело или поверх брючного костюма (здесь должна быть вставка про «тихую роскошь»), как того хотят Дольче и Габбана и Фаррелл Уильямс в дебютной мужской коллекции для LV. Если выступаете в более сдержанной форме, присмотритесь к меховым пальто, как у Сабато де Сарно из Gucci, и моделям Сильвии Вентурини Фенди. На шоу Fendi шубы не застегивают, чтобы продемонстрировать вельветовые кюлоты в тандеме с резиновыми сапогами.
Самым смелым — ориентир на Джонатана Андерсона (нравится его куртка с бантом насыщенного зеленого). Тем, кто так далеко зайти не готов (хотя пора), — кожаные футболки Кима Джонса (он посвятил коллекцию Рудольфу Нурееву), брюки в красивом бутылочном Fendi и практически вся верхняя одежда Hermès (Вероник Нишанян скрупулезно изучила запрос аудитории, поэтому в ее коллекции есть место и флискам, и кожаным пальто).
Кожаные с меховым воротником Prada, как у капитанов дальнего плавания, сюрреалистичные Balmain или вездесущая и бескомпромиссная классика в лице Valentino, The Row и Zegna. Важное и основное — стайл-трюки: носите пальто поверх тренча, делайте его одним из элементов многослойного образа или «сольного высказывания».
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Утепляемся и машем, а заодно экспериментируем с цветом и фактурами. Идеальные упражнения для первого находим у Issey Miyake (персик плюс бургунди, плюс шоколад и малиновый), Botter (бирюзовый отлично смотрится с шоколадом) и Hermès (сиреневый — тот самый союзник пыльно-коричневого и платинового). Лучшие версии монохрома по-прежнему у Кима Джонса из Dior и команды The Row.
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Большие (и очень большие) сумки
Продолжаем тему практичности, функциональности и вместительности. Понравились мимикрирующие под дорожные сумки Prada (чехол для очков здесь тоже есть), LV и Dior. Те, что будут хороши по особому случаю и без него, есть у Valentino, Loewe и Fendi.
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И еще: приспущенные перчатки, длинный шарф, трикотаж на бедрах и классные аксессуары на шее
